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Pointing : Wall2Wall can specify modern Pointing cement based pre mixed mortars which
are usually injection pointed into the 'beds', the pressure ensures
full penetration of the Pointing mixture which is then compacted by hand and
tooled traditionally.
The profile is usually 'bucket handle' (recessed bevel)
We can also undertake lime based pointing for period homes in a
variety of finished and lime materials as well as being able to
offer a mortar analysis service, we can also supply fly ash, brick
dust and other Pozzolans.


On new brickwork, bricklaying should be stopped at a convenient point to allow enough time to clean out the surface mortar of the section of wall laid. The mortar in the joints should be raked out to a depth of about 12mm from the brick surface. Only point a wall when it has been completed.
On old brickwork, chip out the old mortar or pointing to the depth of about 12mm from the brick surface. Some people use angle grinders to remove the old mortar, if you choose to do so, be aware that it will cause a lot of dust, close all the windows to your house, warn your neighbours and wear a face mask and goggles. Use an angle grinder with care otherwise damage to the actual bricks could result.
When the wall is ready to be pointed, the joints should be wetted before being filled with pointing mortar and finished off as for striking above.
The mortar should be a fairly stiff mix. Put a small amount of the mix on a hawk and use a small pointing trowel to cut off a slither of mortar. Pick the mortar up on the edge of the trowel and press the mortar into the joints to be filled, drawing the blade backwards at the same time, repeat this until the mortar is flush with the face of the bricks. Fill the vertical, cross-joints first, then the horizontal, bed-joints. When the joints over about 1 square metre have been filled, finish off using the required style.
The mortar used for pointing should be a 6:1:1 mix of builders sand/hydrated lime/cement or 3:1 mix of sharp sand/hydrated lime for added weather resistance and possibly coloured for added effect.
Case Study
The owners of this Edwardian styled property carefully researched
the internet to find the best solution to the problem of
deteriorating pointing that was allowing the ingress of water.
Due to the very exposed coastal position of this house the original
builders had used very high quality brick that generally was in good
condition.
It was decided that the brick could be retained (although some other
coating firms had recommended rendering the house and painting it
which would have been a shame)








This stone work was re-pointed in NHL 3.5 moderate lime with washed graded
sharp sand
Once the pointing reached the initial set the surface was bag rubbed
with a piece of leather to produce a traditional flush finish joint

in building maintenance, the technique of repairing mortar joints between bricks or other masonry elements. When aging mortar joints crack and disintegrate, the defective mortar is removed by hand or power tool and replaced with fresh mortar, preferably of the same composition as the original. Often an entire wall, or even a whole structure, is pointed because defective points cannot easily be detected, and adjacent joints may also be in need of repair. The mortar is packed tightly in thin layers and tooled to a smooth, concave, finished surface. Tuck-pointing is a refinement of pointing, by which sharply defined points are formed for decorative purposes.